Long Live the Unicorn
By James Dudlicek

I can't even begin to imagine what it's like having to go through life not being about to eat foods with wheat in them. From breads and cereals to seasonings and marinades, wheat ingredients are everywhere, and they're in most of my favorite things to eat.

But I do have some experience with the issue. My young nephew is autistic, and a gluten-free regimen has proved quite beneficial for him. Of course, it's a constant challenge for his parents to find good-tasting and reasonably priced food products for him. Luckily, the growing demand for gluten-free products has made their life a bit easier (having a food industry journalist in the family doesn't hurt, either).

"Traditionally, gluten-free products have been made primarily with simple starches, and had a bad reputation as very inferior in taste vs. processed wheat and other mainstream alternatives," notes Jim Garsow of Loves Park, Ill.-based cracker maker TH Foods.

So, to serve a burgeoning market for folks with celiac disease, autism or other dietary restrictions, food manufacturers have been stepping up efforts to develop new wheat-free products that taste great. Still others have focused marketing efforts on educating consumers about products they may not have known have always been gluten-free, not to mention creating a whole new marketing venue for themselves.

"The gluten-free market has a very bright outlook, as these products will continue to satisfy both consumers seeking healthier choices and those who must adapt their diets because of gluten intolerance or sensitivity," says Tom Buddig, whose Homewood, Ill.-based company's meat products have long been gluten-free. "As the array of product choices continues to expand, retailers and food manufacturers alike will benefit through increased sales and greater affinity for the brands meeting their needs."

Brian Kovalchuk, CEO of Bard's Tale gluten-free beer, based in Minneapolis, adds: "In all categories, I think the variety and quality of products has increased dramatically the last few years. Early on, it was sometimes OK to be just gluten-free. Now consumers are demanding better."

So much better, that gluten-free products are a key element in at least one new food retailing venture. At this writing, Wilde & Greene Restaurant and Natural Market was poised for its grand opening at a major upscale shopping mall in a northern suburb of Chicago. The first U.S. venture of Toronto-based Richtree Market Restaurants, this innovative dining venue features 18 gourmet food and beverage stations, along with a 6,000-square-foot grocery store.

Targeting its surrounding area's affluent demographic, Wilde & Greene's grocery department specializes in organic and natural products, including a wide variety of gluten-free offerings, both prepared food and packaged grocery items. In fact, the market's manager told me during my recent pre-opening tour that he would be working with a local gluten-free bakery to carry its wares, including a vegan, gluten-free cheesecake.

Vegan, gluten-free cheesecake? Not so long ago, this would have been the culinary equivalent of a unicorn. Today, advancements in this segment have made such a thing a reality, and a tasty one at that.

James Dudlicek is senior editor of Progresive Grocer.


© 2012 Stagnito Media. All rights reserved.